What does 1-3/8x24 thread mean for you? This thread allows you to run a wide variety of mounts such as: Direct thread adapters, Q Plan B/Cherry Bomb, Keymo and Rearden Atlas.Įnticer L and LTi series cans are currently the quietest can at ear on. I do believe that Forward Controls Design has some keymo MDs and assume that they have a FH variant as they’re not overly fond of MBs.DDC Enticer cans come with a removable end cap which is compatible with Dead Air end caps.Įnticer cans also come threaded with 1-3/8"x24. Not sure where keymo stacks against that or if there just wasn’t enough data. Still, when I bought my first can last November, general consensus was that KAC has the best attachment method with SF in second. I can’t speak to keymo though lots of people do like it and it’s gaining a lot of steam. Short barrels will do that no matter what so putting an MB on a shorty can be a bit rough. If you don’t think you’ll ever shoot the gun without a can, or at least never without being in full control of the environment, put a brake on it bc most designs will act as a sacrificial baffle and reduce wear on the can, some also claim a very minor increase in suppression with a MB+can.īrakes work really well for their purpose and there are a bunch of hybrid devices now that combine attributes for a Jack of all trades solution, but if it reduces recoil and/or muzzle rise, it will almost if not always increase flash and audible report. General rule of thumb, anything under a 14.5 that may see defensive use, go FH. Longer answer, and to address some of your OP questions, brakes on short guns suck. Ok so super short answer IMO, go with KAC or SureFire since they have FH and MB options. If it's a 308 long range gun, use a brake since you're unlikely to ever shoot it unsuppressed due to potential bullet drop issues at long range, and the brake protects the silencer more, so the fact that it's a brake and not a FH is irrelevant if you shoot it 100% of the time with the silencer.Īlso any suggestions on which muzzle devices like Griffin, Dead Air, Hellfire, etc, that use the same pattern? Whereas a 10.5" you probably always want suppressed. If 5.56 and 12.5" or over, then use a FH, since you're also more likely to shoot it unsuppressed sometimes. If it's 5.56 than if it's under 12.5" use a brake since maybe the FH wont do much and you'll have more unburnt powder and will need the sacrificial nature of the brake more. What kind of strategy makes sense for brakes versus FHs assuming you have several guns you will swap the silencer around? Some ideas: I've heard some people complain that the 3/4 prong FHs have a ping sound even when shot through a silencer, so maybe people hate that and prefer brakes? Or brakes are better for competition and the flash doesn't matter in a competition? Or is it because brakes look cooler on IG with all of the holes and designs? Or are people preferring brakes on shorter guns since maybe the FH doesn't do too much anyway out of a small gun unsuppressed, you'll just maybe reduce the fireball down from 8 feet to 2 feet? So in the event you're running unsuppressed on a shortie gun, the brake is better? Sacrificial something, which is easier to replace (thread off old brake, thread on new brake) versus repairing a silencer baffle. I'm wondering if that's because brakes are more popular than FHs these days, or because they offer greater wear protection for the silencer by acting like a protective device within the first chamber. Which I find odd since coming up in the early 2000s in ARs, I always thought FHs were far superior to brakes. In looking around, it seems like virtually all of them are muzzle brakes and not flash hiders. What's the current state of muzzle device mounts using the standard 1.375-24 Omega/Bravo/Keymo system?
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